Xcalak services for gringos

The little village of Xcalak  has all the  basics you could need.  Prices are higher than in Mahahual,  where prices are higher than super stores in Chetumal or Tulum, stock up on non perishables before coming down.  Tinned meat, while not my first choice, are a good idea for when little is available locally.  Trust me,  you will be eating lots of veggies & fruit, so a can of meat occasionally, will not send you to hell.

Here are a few photos of the main road in Xcalak & the services that I have found w/ the best choice of product & best prices.   There are other small tiendas (stores) so, if one does not have what you are looking for, check out another.  A tortillaria opened recently - as you come into town just before you get to the soccer field - turn right.  A few buildings down on the right - you can buy freshly made corn tortillas, otherwise, you will find only packaged, flour tortillas.

 

 

Note :    There is  NO   ATM  machine in Xcalak ;   the ones  in Mahahual  worked only occasionally, so be  prepared  before arriving  -  ie.   bring  plenty of  pesos !!    There is an ATM  in the casitas section that works more consistently than those in town.  Fees are a bit higher, but when you need pesos .....    As you head into the town, there is a left turn (only paved left turn) toward the cruise ship port area.  Bear left there  and across the street from (for the life of me, I can't remember the name) a very good grocery store, down a side street about 20 meters,  there is an ATM on the left hand side of the road,  outside -  can't miss it.  It  is, I believe, the 1st left (note- you will cross the divided road there ). 

Xcalak village

Well the town itself is pretty compact,  you can drive through it in a few minutes.  If the roads were paved,  even less.  But it has pretty much everything I need.  There is a laundry, a tortillaria, a few economical, family run restaurants, some  very good restaurants, a couple of hotels, small stores to buy groceries, tequila , 5 gallon drinking water refills and stalls to buy whatever fruit & vegetables available that day.  There is not a lot of variety, but the basics are there .  For more selection and gas, a trip to Mahahual (about 45 minute drive) is required.  Remember -  there are NO  ATM  machines here;  nearest are in Mahahual !   Bring  more pesos than you think you will need  or you will be driving 45-60 minutes to replenish - if  you can find an ATM  working ! 
I am posting a few photos of the town,  please check back periodically, as I will be adding more.
I will try to put photos of the actual stores,  laundry & such  as I return to the town.

SIRIUS/XM RADIO IN MEXICO

I took my Sirius/XM radio w/ home antenna kit with me on the recommendation of the home owner.
I am so glad I did.  The signal is accessible all the way down in Xcalak (Google it), Mexico.
Antenna pointing is hyper sensitive, and wind sometimes plays havoc w/ reception -  it is worth taking along if you want to listen to music other than on your MP3 device.  If you plan to be here for the long term, an outdoor antenna ( about $50.00 on their website) would be a good investment.

TV & movies are another matter -    I will tell you about my experience, so far,  in the next Post .

Great information - now this was a trip to remember.

I came across this web site before I left for my drive to southern Mexico; compared to the drive recounted on this site, mine was a trip to the corner store.   This has some pretty serious and detailed info - maybe more than you will ever need,  but -----    it is certainly an interesting, informative read.
I appreciate and thank the authors for the work & research that they put in to it!

When I was in my early 30's, a friend & I drove all the way down the Baja, before Route 1  was paved the way it is now.  We then took the car ferry over to the mainland to Puerto Vallarta, drove down the coast,  up into the mountains of Michoacan to Patzcuaro,  from there to Oaxaca & finally over to the Yucatan.  It was a trip of a lifetime - never enjoyed myself more.   Now, as a retired senior,  I don't think I would attempt a journey like that - we slept in a tent the whole time with 2 nights in hotels & about 6 weeks in a palapa (hut) on a beach just south of the Tulum ruins.  My back wouldn't be up to the task now.  I have flown back & driven a rental car to retrace portions of that trip several time,  but never the whole route at once.
 
I am delighted that the spirit of adventure & exploration still exists - not a lot of that left now.  Please do yourself a favor -  go outside & play !  

Here is that link I spoke about -    enjoy !

Overlanding

Casa Rosada (Rancho Portillos) - southern-most casa on the Yucatan peninsular

I am staying at a wonderful place south of Xcalak (ISH ka lak) called Rancho Portillos, or Casa Rosada, depending on whom you ask.  It is only 2.5 miles from the town, the 'road' is an adventure in itself. The location & view can't be beat ! 
The casa is only 20 yards from the ocean with palms swaying on the shore & the ever present roar of surf washing over the reef that is about 500 yards or so off shore. The casa has two floor, two apartments - I am staying on the first floor.  A good sized bedroom, bath w/ shower & toilet, a well equipped galley kitchen  & a dining / sitting area.  The sitting area over looks a patio & faces east - right out onto the beach.
Outside there is a sign that pretty much says it all :

Below is a link to the rental property should you wish further information.


Casa Rosada

Mexico tourist visa & car permit guide

Getting the required paper work to drive through Mexico is relatively easy, if you plan ahead.
First - apply for, pay & receive the Banjercito car importation sticker online at their web site - see previous post.
Second - try to cross early in the morning.  There is less traffic & fewer people in line ahead of you.
I crossed at International Bridge II - right off Route 35  in Laredo, Texas and was through all the formality, both U.S. & Mexican, in less than 20 minutes.  Drive through a few side streets of Nuevo Laredo, following the blue     Modulo CIITEV     signs.
Third - I am posting a link a a great web site w/ detailed driving instructions on finding the building, exiting & getting on to Route 85 towards Monterrey.  The directions are great, except for - and I can't stress this enough -  Step 12 .      
At the stop light  -  STEER TO THE RIGHT  AS YOU MAKE THE U-TURN !!!!!!   The yellow traffic markers should stay to the left of the drivers side of the car.      I didn't and ended up scrambling my way back through Nuevo Laredo to find the building.   Except for that, the directions are perfect.
Fourth -  only follow these directions until Step 35 -   continue straight on instead of taking the exit.

I hope these driving directions to the vehicle import building will allay any fears about driving through Nuevo Laredo.


modulo ciitev

Palenque -

On the drive from Laredo, Texas to my destination in Xcalak, I took a slight detour so that I could re-visit Palenque.  It's basically on the way, & added maybe two hours to the total driving time.

I had been here many years before & was taken by it, like no other Mayan site  I had or later visited.
It as not so grand as Chichen Itza  or Tikal in Guatemala, nor situated on the ocean like Tulum, but the  site is on rolling hills, in some pretty dense jungle.   There is a small river that runs through the site, that seems to add moisture to the air so that at times, the fog practically hides some of the temples & buildings.  It just adds to the over all atmosphere of the site.   And, if you get there early in the morning before the tour buses arrive, you can hear troops of howler monkeys crying off in the near distance.   You will also enjoy the site more -  once the buses arrive, it can get crowded.  It is not a large site so w/ the number of people, it feels crowded.  Forget about photos of the buildings without a group of people posing in front for their own memories.

From Villahermosa, follow Route 180 to signs for Palenque - you can't miss the turn off to Route 199 -  there are signs directing you.  The drive down this road takes about 1/2 hour or so, depending on traffic & condition of the road bed (was being worked on when I drove it & had some nasty sections where no asphalt only gravel/sand).   Once in town, there are several hotel options - I chose to pass through town & stay at a hotel on the road to the ruin site.  There is good & bad to this -  easier & quicker to get to the ruins early in the morning,  but it takes longer to rejoin Route 180 when  leaving
to continue your trip. Hotels range in price from $300.00 / night  down ( I paid $47.00 / night - but, you get what you pay for in life). I tried to get a room at Hotel Boutique Quinta Chanabnal but either they were full or because it was low season & no one else was staying that night or what - I was told that only room available was $295.00 / night, even thought they have lesser rooms.  I have to concede, I did not have reservations, I just walked in.  The rooms must have been full of tourists who took the bus tour to the ruins, there was not another car in sight.  Oh well ........  Oh, by the way -
I checked on booking.com & tripadviser.com - the picture & description of the Hotel Los Leones they have is NOT the Hotel Los Leones that I stayed at -  just a heads up.


There is a 27 Peso toll only a few miles before the entrance to the site & the fee to enter (I had my Nikon with me) was 45 Pesos.


On my return trip, I stayed at the Hotel Nututun Palenque.  Price was about $75.00 / night & worth every penny.  This hotel is about 2 to 3 miles, on the LEFT hand side of the road, out of town, on the road to Agua Azul.  Go thru town, and when you see signs for  ruins  or  Agua Azul,  take  left toward Agua Azul.   There is another Hotel Nututun,  (autohotel, I believe) on the right side of the road.  Go by that about 200 meters, & on the left, there is the sign for Hotel Nututun Palenque.
Beautiful rooms, great restaurant & situated right on a river.  Only complaint, was WiFi signal in the room I was staying was  only occasionally able to connect to the internet;  signal was fine in the pool area & in the reception area (separate logon & password required here - ask at the desk).  I have added a few pictures of the hotel & area .  By the way,  early  in the morning,  you can hear howler monkeys  -  not that far away !

Toll road costs in Mexico

A few words on the cost of tolls & toll roads  on the way down to Xcalak from Laredo, Texas .
The toll roads are Much quicker & safer than the libre (free)  roads;  they are a bit expensive however.  Consider the time spent coming to an almost complete stop five or six (or more ) times each time you pass through a small town or village & you will quickly appreciate the toll roads.
Another advantage are the Green Angels (free service such as gas, tire change etc) that patrol the toll roads.  I did not need their services on this trip, I have in prior travel through Mexico.  Many speak English & I consider them angels, indeed.  Parts etc. are not free -  but breaking down on the side of the road with no AAA road service available is a bit scary. 

Iin May 2013 a trip of 1600 plus miles using toll road whenever possible, cost  slightly less than $200.00 U.S. dollars.  

Yes, the cost of the toll roads are a bit expensive, but considering the alternative, worth every penny.

Toll road  ( Cuota )  cost web site :

cuota

There are plenty of web sites w/ more on the Green Angels & the services they provide ,  so I will not repeat that here.  Just search for green angels  on your browser, to find more information..

Mexican car permit online - before you leave the U.S.

If you have time -  consider pre-purchasing your car permit before you leave the states.  I  did -  it was quick, convenient & it saved time  entering Mexico.
There is a fee for the permit, plus a deposit for your promise to return with the car.  The fee depends on the age of your vehicle.  Since I drove a 1999 Toyota - the fee was $200.00 U.S..  This will be returned when you turn in the permit  upon leaving the country.  Credit cards  are accepted !

You can purchase it up to 60 days prior to entering Mexico, but you must  have 7 - 10 business days prior to entering the country.   Your permit with holographic design will arrive via  DHL in about a week,  but plan on 10 days just to be safe.   This is placed on the inside of the car windshield, under the rear view mirror.

Here is a link to the site that I  used  :

Banjercito

Select the English option and get started !!!

A leisurely drive from Laredo, Texas to Xcalak, Quintana Roo, Mexico

I left Laredo Texas in early May at 6:00 AM - before bridge II, I stopped for gas & to change dollars to pesos.  I passed through U.S. customs, who just waved me on,  paid the $3.00 toll, entered Mexico.  Mexican customs consisted of a 15 second search of the car, by opening & closing the hatchback door,  and I was waved through.  I followed the directions to obtain car permit, but because I missed making a very wide U-turn,  ended up going into a side street of Nuevo Laredo.  When you get to the stop light to U-turn back toward the bridge & get papers,  make  sure you swing way over to the right most lane of the road ;  yellow topes (speed bumps)   should be on drivers side of  car !!   Once I did that, simple to find the building.

Enter, turn right  go to Paso 1 - ask for a tourist Visa -  take it to a table & fill it out - completely.
Return to window,  pay $,  proceed to Paso 2 -  where they will make copies of everything needed -
I made my own before hand, so only copy needed was of the tourist visa ( $ 0.25).  Take papers to Paso 4 -  Banjercito -   Since I applied for,  paid for  & obtained this sticker online -  this was a snap.
This whole procedure took no more  than 20 minutes.   I  left, applied the car sticker under the rear view mirror, & drove to Route 85.  About 26 KM further, you will come to the 2nd customs -  I  was waved through .

I followed Route 85  until it joins Route 57 / 57D until I reached Matehuala.  I wanted to stay at the Las Palmas hotel since I had read much about it on the Internet.  Do not follow signs to Hotel zone - the hotel is right off (with a bit of maneuvering) Route 57.  Glad I stopped there -  it was clean, secure, good A/C, TV w/ some channels in English, & a very good restaurant.

Due to unforeseen circumstances ( OK, I overslept ),  I didn't leave the next day until 8:30 AM.  I reached Puebla sometime between 3:45 & 4:00.  Do yourself a favor - do not reach the city between
6:30 - 9:30 AM  or  3:30 - 7:30 PM -  traffic is backed up for kilometers due to road construction &  well, just too much traffic.  There was a Cityexpress hotel on the same side of the road, so I pulled in there for the night.  It was about $80.00 U.S.  -  clean, modern, A/C, TV w/ some English channels, but no restaurant.  Right across the small side street the hotel is on, there is a Taco Express &  a Subway sandwich shop.

Next morning at 6:30 I left the hotel,  but still was caught in a 20 minute or so back-up - eventually made it through the city.  Coming down from Puebla - elevation about 7,200 ft  was fun.  Mountainous roads - the twisty turny kind & an accident which backed up traffic for a while was the highlight of this day.  Look for & take the Arco Norte -  tough to spot after the 1st sign pointing the way to it.  This by-passes Mexico City -  you do not want to drive in Mexico City -  period !   Fill gas in car in Puebla -  there is a Pemex station being built on the Arco Norte, other wise - no fuel available the whole road.

I arrived in Palenque around 4:00 PM -  this was a must stop for me - I love the place, my favorite Mayan ruins site .  The town has certainly spread out & grown since I was there last, but  if you go through the town following signs for  the ruins,  there are some hotels on this road.  Prices range from $300.00 U.S . / night  down.   I stayed at  Los Leones -  about $42.00 U.S. / night.

I would only stay there again if I had to.  Terrible restaurant, A/C  barely worked  - I would try a different hotel next time -  but not spend $300.00 / night;  that place was beautifully landscaped & had a small replica of a Mayan pyramid on site -  but still.

From Palenque to Escarcega & perhaps 50 miles beyond expect some pretty major road construction - which means one lane roads, &  long delays.   Once you get through all of that,  you begin to experience the joy of Mexican topes  until  15 or so  miles past Chetumal,  on Route 307.
Keep an eye out for Bacalar -  you will not believe the color of the water in the bay.   Take the exit for Mahahul a  while beyond Bacalar.

I stopped at the Hotel Mahahual - it was OK - but very convenient because there were ATM machines in the back parking area - by the way, you will see signs for parking for the hotel, but drive past that to a narrow opening in the building itself - turn left there (2nd sign for Hotel Mahahual parking).     Ten feet beyond the ATM machines  is a pedestrian walk w/ Internet cafes, restaurants &  etc.  -  take your laptop & stroll around until you are able to get on to the Internet.  Oh,  and  the Caribbean -  how could I forget that .....   sitting on a tropical beach (you really are in the tropics now) , with Internet access,  a cold cerveza or 2 or 3  .........  priceless.    Green Iguana had great  Internet signal, ice cold cerveza,  helpful waiters,  &  great Chicken Parmesan  w/  pasta.

Left next morning, after buying some tequila & a few veggies.   On the road back toward Route 307,  stop at the Sol distributorship on the right,  to buy beer;  about $12.00 U.S.  for a case of  warm Sol.
Buy gas just beyond .......  take  a left a little way past the Pemex.  Follow the road for about an hour to  the T- junction,  turn left  -- for a few miles to the soccer field.  Go left around the soccer field - facing ocean to a cross road.  Turn left to center of town &  stores & etc.    -  turn right to  Rancho Portillas  - bear left  when road goes straight or  left . 
You  will feel you took the wrong road the whole time you are on this -  it  is not a fun 2.5  miles -
persevere,  just before the edge of the earth appears -  on the left side -  the sign for  ----
Rancho Portillas  -      down the  driveway  .................      yes.  Do not attempt this road at night -  until you have driven it a few times - you will understand why after you drive it !




Note -    I didn't put all the  route names &  mileages  -  I  used Google  Maps  to get them -  they are pretty accurate.   I  also did not include  every place you will pay tolls .    Please take   toll roads whenever possible  -   it is  a bit less than $200.00 U.S.  for  tolls -  but  worth every penny.   The  roads are better -  not as crowded    &  I  never  felt like I was in a threatening situation the whole drive down.   Pay attention to signs,  do not  drive  30/40 KPH  faster than posted speed limits (like  almost everyone else) ,  stop at a hotel before dark  -   relax  &  enjoy.   You will be safe.

Check the links below  for  addition information -  note -  some info may be a little out of date.

Driving in Mexico information    Driving in Mexico :Mexico driving